Oaxaca’s Ephemeral Sculptures: La Noche de los Rábanos

Oaxaca is widely regarded as the cultural capital of Mexico; a city where rituals rooted in ceramics, textiles, cuisine, and dance unfold throughout the year. Yet among this remarkable diversity, there is one festival that stands out as both unexpected and poetic: La Noche de los Rábanos, or the Night of the Radishes. Held annually on the evening of December 23, the festival lasts for just one night—yet it leaves an enduring imprint on the collective memory of Oaxaca and on the minds of those who witness it.

Searches such as “radish carving Oaxaca” may be popular today, but the roots of this tradition trace back to the 16th century. Introduced during the Spanish colonial period, radishes flourished in Oaxaca’s fertile soil and soon grew to striking, oversized forms. Their twisted, sculptural shapes drew the curiosity and imagination of local residents at agricultural markets.

According to legend, one year farmers decorated these giant radishes for a Christmas fair, and the public response was so enthusiastic that the gesture evolved into a friendly local competition. In 1897, Francisco Vasconcelos, the mayor at the time, officially declared December 23 the date of a radish-carving festival.

Today, La Noche de los Rábanos represents the intersection of agricultural heritage and the region’s deep-rooted craftsmanship traditions.

The radishes used for the Night of the Radishes are cultivated specifically for sculpting—not consumption. These specimens can grow over 50 cm long and weigh several kilograms. They are planted three to four months in advance to achieve the right size and carving-friendly texture.

On the morning of the festival, selected artists set up their stalls in Oaxaca’s central Zócalo square. Most sculptures begin taking shape early in the day. Because radishes lose moisture quickly, artists frequently mist their creations to keep them fresh—adding an element of intentional “ephemerality” to the art.

The Evening of December 23: The City’s Pulse

The magic of La Noche de los Rábanos begins at dusk. The square transforms into an open-air museum illuminated by lights, accompanied by live music and lined with hundreds of sculpture booths.

• Traditional Oaxacan daily-life scenes
• Nativity and Christmas themes
• Mythological figures and folk tales
• Modern interpretations and humorous works

Throughout the night, thousands of visitors walk through the displays, take photographs, and often stop to watch artists carve their pieces in real time. Jury evaluations usually take place between 9:00 and 10:00 p.m., and winners are awarded both recognition and monetary prizes.

The Surreal World of Radish Sculptures

Some sculptures depict local dance traditions, mezcal-making rituals, or characters from Zapotec and Mixtec mythology. Others address contemporary social issues, weaving in subtle humor and cultural commentary.

Radish is, in this sense, both fragile and powerful: pliable enough to unleash an artist’s imagination, yet inherently perishable, giving each work a lifespan of only one night.

This ephemerality is one of the festival’s most poetic aspects:

“Art lives, then fades—but the story it leaves behind remains.”

Year-End Atmosphere in Oaxaca: More Than a Festival

Throughout December, the city becomes a vibrant cultural stage filled with Posadas, street concerts, traditional piñata rituals, artisan markets, mezcal tastings, and streets adorned with flowers.

Visitors who come for the festival not only witness the sculptures but also experience the refined craftsmanship of Oaxacan cuisine, street food culture, and the layered soundscape of regional music. Mole negro, tlayudas, champurrado, and hot chocolate are among the season’s highlights.

Visitor Guide

1. Arrive Early

Crowds are dense. To see the sculptures clearly and take good photographs, arriving around 4:30–5:00 p.m. is ideal.

2. Book Accommodation in Advance

Because the festival attracts international visitors, the historic center fills up quickly in December. Boutique hotels near the Zócalo or Santo Domingo are particularly popular.

3. Safety and Crowds

The festival is family-friendly, safe, and well-organized; however, due to the number of visitors, keeping valuables secure is recommended.

4. After the Festival

Walk through the Christmas markets that remain open late into the evening; they offer an excellent opportunity to meet local ceramic artists, alebrije makers, textile artisans, and mezcal producers.